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Gloxinia (80 photos): types and care

Gloxinia (80 photos): types and care

Homemade gloxinia are valued by flower growers, first of all, for their unusually beautiful foliage and colorful flowering. This exotic plant comes from Brazil, and was introduced to Europe in the 19th century. For a long time, the chief botanist of the garden of the University of Bonn, Wilhelm Sinning, worked on the selection, who bred many new beautiful varieties. In honor of him, the plant was given the botanical name Sinningia, and flower growers call it Gloxinia. Now you can find various types of culture with bell-shaped flowers, which are double or simple, with contrasting and ruffled edges, in various colors.

Main types

Despite the fact that in nature there are about 25 species of this wonderful plant with various varieties, only two main ones are grown in culture, which bear very beautiful names “Beautiful” and “Royal”.

Gloxinia beautiful

This species includes varieties with simple and double flowers, which are shaped like large bells. Their color palette is very diverse – from white, blue and purple to pink-purple.

Gloxinia beautiful Gloxinia beautiful

Gloxinia royal

This species is represented by a miniature bush, which does not exceed 10 cm in height. Its leaves have an interesting pattern in the form of silvery veins. Elongated bell-shaped flowers are up to 7 cm in diameter and about 5 cm long.

Gloxinia royal Gloxinia royal

In addition to these two main species, many different varieties have been bred, including such as: “Winter cherry” with double burgundy petals and similar to it “Yesenia” “Christine Irish”, with dense white petals of the buds with red edging, as well as the snow-white “High Light”, which is often used to form bouquets.

Gloxinia - Species Gloxinia - Species

Proper care for gloxinia

Good grooming is very important for Gloxinia, as it is for any flowering crop. To a large extent, the principle of “golden mean” is used to create a favorable microclimate. Consider what basic requirements a florist must comply with in order to admire the beauty of flowering as long as possible..

Lighting

Culture loves a lot of diffused and bright light, and it must be hidden from direct sunlight so that it does not fade. The best option at home is east and west windows. If the plant is constantly in partial shade, it will begin to stretch. Whether it has enough light can be determined by the state of the leaves. If they are located horizontally and have a dark color, there is enough light, and when they rise up, then there is not enough lighting. When there is too much light, the flowering period is shortened, and the edges of the leaves are curled – you need to create partial shade.

Gloxinia - Lighting Gloxinia - Lighting

Temperature

The culture is quite thermophilic, but does not like the heat. The optimum temperature for normal development is the range from + 18 … + 20. When a plant experiences overheating, its leaves rise up and, conversely, fall down when hypothermic. In winter, when the heating season begins, indoor gloxinia must be removed further from the batteries..

Gloxinia - Temperature Gloxinia - Temperature

Humidity

The culture does not have special requirements for the conditions of atmospheric humidity – the usual room microclimate is quite suitable. In hot weather, the plant can be lightly sprayed.

Gloxinia - Humidity Gloxinia - Humidity

Watering

Watering gloxinia is necessary in moderation – with an excess of water, the roots will begin to rot. The water should be warm, settled, a couple of degrees above room temperature. In no case should it be watered with cold running water, as this will lead to wilting of the stems. During the growing season, gloxinia is moistened in a pan or overhead watering so that water does not fall on leaves and flowers, while the soil should dry out between waterings. At the end of summer, the frequency of feeding is increased so that the culture gradually enters the dormant stage..

Gloxinia - Watering Gloxinia - Watering

Fertilizers and feeding

A lack of nutrients can lead to fading of the color of the buds, a decrease in their size and a decrease in the duration of flowering, and the growth of the plant itself also stops..

To feed the crop, complex fertilizers are used, which are applied once every ten days. Top dressing with alternating mineral and organic fertilizers has a beneficial effect on the development and flowering. Mullein solution is not difficult to prepare. To do this, its concentrate is diluted in settled water in a ratio of 1:12. You need to start feeding gloxinia after the resting stage is over, the first tuberous shoots will appear.

At the end of summer, fertilization of the soil stops. In the summer, when gloxinia is constantly exposed to abundant lighting, it may develop a boron deficiency. It is determined by the appearance of jags at the edges of the sheet plates. The plant can be cured by feeding with borax solution..

Gloxinia - Fertilizers and dressing Gloxinia - Fertilizers and dressing

Pests and diseases

The most dangerous disease for the culture is gray rot, which is the result of improper care, namely, waterlogging and stagnation of water in the soil. In this case, the leaves of gloxinia are covered with brown spots. To avoid this, it is necessary to observe proper care, but since the disease does occur, it must be cured. To do this, remove the damaged areas and treat the plant with a fungicide. In addition, the culture must be protected from diseases such as late blight, “black leg” and “powdery mildew”, for the treatment of which Fundazol is used. You can also carry out prophylaxis by treating the culture with phytosporin..

But this is not the whole list of troubles that a flower can befall. Significant damage is caused by pests, among which the most dangerous are such as:

Thrips – their infection of the culture is characterized by the appearance of light streaks and dots on the leaves, which then dry, become brown on the lower side, and the edges are wrapped up;

Cyclamented mites are rather small, they cannot be distinguished with the naked eye, and their large accumulation looks like a layer of dust. Its appearance on the plant can be determined by deformation and thickening of the leaves, their twisting. The flower buds quickly wither, and the tops of the shoots dry;

Spider mites – live on the underside of the leaf and feed on its cell sap. It is determined by the presence of white blotches at an early stage of infection and cobwebs at a later stage..

In addition to the fact that thrips infect gloxinia leaves, their larvae go into the ground, so its top layer must be changed. A diseased plant must be treated with insecticides (karbofos, fitoverm) three times with an interval of one week. Mites are also removed, but the soil does not change..

Gloxinia - Pests and Diseases Gloxinia - Pests and Diseases Gloxinia - Pests and Diseases

How to transplant gloxinia

Gloxinia is transplanted annually in February. She is placed in a pot of new potting soil, which can be purchased ready-made at the store. Mixes are great for violets and begonias. If you cook it yourself, you need to mix leaf, as well as humus earth and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1.

Gloxinia tubers are carefully removed from the container along with the soil and transferred to a new pot, which should be slightly larger than the old one. Previously, drainage and a layer of new soil must be laid in it. Having established the plant, sprinkle it with a substrate on top and tamp it so that the tuber is half buried. This is followed by careful care..

How to transplant gloxinia How to transplant gloxinia

Reproduction at home

Gloxinia can be propagated in three ways – by seed, cuttings and by dividing the tuber. The seed method allows you to get a large number of seedlings, but its main disadvantage is the risk of changing the appearance of the plant. Nevertheless, flower growers use it widely..

Seed propagation

You need to sow seeds from late autumn to early spring. For this, shallow containers are used, into which the soil mixture is poured. It consists of earth, sand and peat in equal amounts. Having planted the seeds in moistened soil, the boxes are kept in a warm place. It is necessary to spray the soil from time to time with slightly warmed, settled water. After a couple of weeks, the first shoots are formed. You can dive seedlings after the appearance of two full-fledged leaves. If they are placed not in separate flowerpots, but in a common container, you need to maintain a distance of 7-8 cm. The first flowering can be observed after 7 months.

Gloxinia - Seed propagation Gloxinia - Seed propagation

Propagation by cuttings

To propagate gloxinia in this way, you need to cut off a young leaf with a petiole from a plant in bloom. It is rooted in soil consisting of sand and peat in a 2: 1 ratio, and a glass jar is placed on top. Every day, the jar needs to be removed for 15–20 minutes to ventilate, and then set to its original position. After a few weeks, after rooting, the cuttings can be transplanted into separate containers. Flowering can be expected in the year of planting.

Gloxinia - Propagation by cuttings Gloxinia - Propagation by cuttings

Root division

The tuber of adult gloxinia is carefully cut. In this case, you can get as much planting material as there is on the tuber of the shoots. Slices must be sprinkled with crushed coal so as not to provoke diseases. Each part obtained is placed in its own pot with well-moistened and nourished soil. Watering is not required for the first few days.

Gloxinia - Root division Gloxinia - Root division

Gloxinia – photo

The bright, always attracting attention of gloxinia cannot be described in words – the numerous photographs collected in our catalog will tell the best about them. We invite you to familiarize yourself with this beautiful representative of the flora, which is able to outshine many neighbors on the windowsill with its bouquet of marvelous bells.

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